From Inspiration to Innovation: Unpacking the Design Process during London Design Festival

In September 2024, we partnered with Hatton Garden Business Improvement District (BID) to celebrate London Design Festival with a panel talk and networking event at SEC Newgate’s offices in the heart of Hatton Garden. Over breakfast – generously provided by Catalyst Roasters – we came together to exchange knowledge, inspire one another and form meaningful new connections with other members of the jewellery industry in our vast and fragmented capital city.

Followed by a deeply inspiring keynote speech from industry veteran and Dower & Hall co-founder Dan Dower, From Inspiration to Innovation was the panel discussion at the centre of the event. Moderated by Kassandra Gordon (artist, jeweller and The Jewellery Collective’s founder), the panel platformed Nadia Abbas (jewellery technician and co-founder of Stööki), Rebecca Maddock (jewellery designer, consultant and founder of &Worn Consultancy), Gavin Marsh (master stone-setter and co-founder of The Diamond Setter), Ruby Jack (jewellery designer and co-founder of Ruby Jack Jewellery) and Bibi Cheung (jewellery designer and co-founder of TVRRINI.)

Unpacking the design process, the conversation delved into some of the issues facing independent jewellery designers today and the importance of authenticity in a deeply saturated jewellery market.

Balancing Authenticity with the Wants of Others

A conundrum we’re often faced with – in day-to-day conversation, during online masterclasses, and on panel discussions – is how a jewellery designer can successfully strike the balance between creating custom jewellery for bespoke clients and maintaining a strong personal design language. As an independent jeweller trying to stay financially afloat, high-paying bespoke commissions are incredibly appealing. Rebecca, however, shared her personal experience of moving away from custom work after realising that it didn’t align with her creative goals. She explained that whilst bespoke commissions can be financially rewarding, it often comes with the burden of fulfilling someone else’s vision, which can stifle a designer’s true creative spirit. At worst, taking constant bespoke commissions can be “exhausting” and “soul-draining” for those whose passion lies in designing jewellery inspired by feelings from within.

Ruby, for example, draws on her former career as a musician – which has deepened her appreciation for how sounds can conjure shapes and forms. Her path to jewellery came when her head was turned to coax a song, but a shape whistled in her ear. Her songs were destined for metal, resolved to adorn bodies and to echo their stories. She likened her experience has a bespoke jeweller to acting as a counsellor for clients, highlighting the emotional labour involved in designing custom pieces that honour family heirlooms and personal histories.

For many jewellers, this entrusted privilege is a deeply meaningful process. Bibi, for example, shared her personal journey of learning the ropes of bespoke commissions. Initially, the experience was daunting and convoluted - but over time, she found it to be an invaluable tool for refining her design process and building relationships with clients. This learning curve taught her the importance of communication and the necessity of managing client expectations.

For other jewellers, it can be an unsatisfying endeavour that distracts from their true design ambitions. There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ either way, but it’s important to recognise what your instincts tell you and leave the bespoke commissions to another jeweller if you feel you are not truly the right person to fulfil your client’s wishes.

Knowing Who You Are as a Designer

A key piece of advice shared during the discussion was the importance of understanding your own identity as a designer before venturing into collaborations or commissions. As Nadia pointed out, unless you speak in a clear design language and know exactly what you want to create, you are at risk of being pulled in multiple directions by clients' desires. This idea was echoed by Rebecca, who emphasised that understanding your unique style and the work, stories and materials you’re passionate about is crucial in developing a successful, authentic and distinctive jewellery brand. It is the authenticity behind your work that attracts customers; not simply the technical skills or the ability to fulfil market demands. A clear design identity helps you attract the right clients, seeking what only you can create - rather than clients who just want a cheaper version of something they’ve seen elsewhere.

Technology as Tools, Not Replacements

The panel discussion also touched on the rise of AI and digital tools in the jewellery industry, particularly with regard to CAD software and 3D modelling. As technology continues to advance, there is growing concern about the role AI will play in the future of jewellery design. Some designers worry that AI could reduce the need for traditional craftsmanship or replace designers altogether. However, our panellists were unanimous in their belief that AI, like CAD, should be embraced as a tool that can enhance, rather than replace, a designer’s creative process.

Whilst AI can help with repetitive tasks, speed up production, and offer new design possibilities, it cannot replicate the human touch that lends a piece of jewellery its unique personality. Bibi has been using AI in the design process for a few years now, using it to generate initial concepts or providing inspiration to work forwards from. Ultimately, however, she is confident that it’s the designer’s skill and intuition that make a final piece of jewellery meaningful. AI may offer a wealth of ideas, but it cannot replace the soul of a piece, which is a magic that comes from the designer’s deep understanding of their craft.

Gavin, meanwhile, pointed out that CAD and 3D modelling have already revolutionised the way designs are created, allowing for more precise and efficient production. However, he cautioned that whilst technology can provide useful shortcuts, it is still essential for designers to understand the technical aspects of jewellery making and retain control over the design process. Traditional skills such as hand-engraving, stone setting, and polishing cannot be replaced by a machine or algorithm.

Connecting with Customers and Building Relationships

Digital tools can not only be harnessed in the design and production processes, but to understand customer preferences and create designs that cater to market demand.

However, our panellists also stressed the importance of maintaining an authentic connection with customers; especially when working in the luxury and bespoke markets. Building a loyal customer base requires more than just creating beautiful pieces; it’s a commitment to storytelling, sharing the inspiration behind your designs, and engaging with customers on a personal, emotional level. Jewellery is often bought to mark significant life events like engagements, weddings, and anniversaries, and customers like to feel that their jewel is not simply a product, but a meaningful expression of their personal journey.

Final Thoughts

The jewellery industry is constantly evolving, and with this change comes challenge and opportunity in equal measures. Ultimately, the key to a jewellery brand that stands the test of time is the ability to balance self-assured authenticity with innovation and a willingness to adapt.

Largely, confidence in understanding the evolution of our industry can be derived from community; from collaboration and knowledge-sharing. By attending events, joining conversations and reaching out to other independent jewellers – particularly those working outside of inner-city jewellery hubs – we can gain new perspectives, pool resources, and build a sense of camaraderie.

This event was another step in our mission to foster greater community, opportunity, inclusivity, knowledge-sharing and trust in the UK jewellery industry. We are very grateful for our partnerships with Hatton Garden BID, SEC Newgate and our generous panellists, which enabled us to offer this particular event for free – but as a not-for-profit voluntary organisation, The Jewellery Collective relies on your support to continue breaking down historic barriers within our trade. Please check out our 2025 programme of online and in-person events to continue learning, evolving and challenging with us as a community.